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845-445-8255

Schedule A Consultation

Spray Foam Insulation Contractor in Westchester & Northern NJ

Spray foam is the one insulation that also air seals, which is why it belongs on the rim joist, the crawl space walls, the roof deck and the knee walls, and why it does not belong everywhere. We install open-cell and closed-cell foam where it earns its place, and tell you where cellulose does the job better.

workspace_premiumBPI Accredited
ecoNYSERDA Participant
diversity_1Woman Owned, Family Run
verifiedServing NY & NJ since 2005
Metro NY Insulation installer in a supplied-air suit spraying closed-cell foam into the stud bays of a garage wall

Closed-cell foam

Insulates · Air seals · Stops vapor

Spray polyurethane foam is two liquids, an isocyanate and a polyol resin, that meet in the spray gun and expand into a solid within seconds. Because it goes on as a liquid, it fills every gap it touches and bonds to whatever it lands on. That is the whole point: it is the only common insulation that is also an air barrier, and in a house that leaks air the air sealing is worth as much as the R-value.

This page covers what we use it for in Westchester, Rockland and northern New Jersey, the difference between open-cell and closed-cell, how a job actually goes from prep to re-occupancy, and the honest answers on safety and the real downsides. If you are comparing materials for a whole attic, start with cellulose versus spray foam; the short version is that most open attic floors are a cellulose job with foam doing the air sealing underneath.

Open-Cell or Closed-Cell

Two different materials that share a name. Which one goes where is the first decision on every spray foam job.

Closed-cell spray foamOpen-cell spray foam
DensityAbout 2 lb per cubic foot. Rigid; you can lean on it.About 0.5 lb per cubic foot. Soft, spongy, cuts with a knife.
R-value per inchAbout R-6.5 to R-7About R-3.5 to R-3.8
Air barrierYes, at about one inch.Yes, at three to four inches.
VaporBecomes a vapor retarder at about two inches. Does not absorb water.Vapor-open. Absorbs water if it gets wet and has to dry out.
SoundSome.Good; the cell structure damps airborne sound.
Where we use itRim joists, crawl space and basement walls, roof decks, knee wall backs, garage ceilings under bedrooms, mobile home underbellies. Anything below grade, against concrete, or exposed to the weather.Interior partition walls for sound, some roof assemblies where the deck has to dry inward, and cavities where thickness is available and moisture is not a concern.
Thickness per passSprayed in lifts of about two inches so the heat of the reaction can dissipate.Can be sprayed to full depth in one pass.

In our climate the answer is closed-cell far more often than not. Almost everything we foam is either below grade, touching masonry, or on the cold side of the house, and those are all closed-cell conditions.

Where Spray Foam Earns Its Place

The parts of a Westchester or Bergen County house where foam is the right material, and the one place it usually is not.

foundation

Rim joist and sill plate

The band of framing on top of the foundation wall leaks air at the sill, at the joist ends and at every pipe and wire through it. Two inches of closed-cell foam seals and insulates it in one pass. It is the most common spray foam job we do and it is part of NYSERDA Package A. Rim joist insulation →

water_damage

Crawl space and basement walls

Concrete, block and stone foundations are cold, damp and irregular. Closed-cell foam bonds to all of them, does not absorb moisture and brings the space inside the envelope. Crawl space insulation → and encapsulation →

roofing

Attic roof deck

When the attic has to be conditioned, because the air handler and ducts are up there or the space is being finished, the insulation moves from the floor to the underside of the roof. Code sets a minimum thickness of air-impermeable foam on the deck for condensation control (R-15 in Climate Zone 4, R-20 in Zone 5); we meet it with closed-cell and top up with open-cell or batts where the rafters allow.

stairs

Knee walls and bonus rooms

The short walls behind a finished attic or over a garage back onto unconditioned space and are the reason those rooms are cold. Foam on the back of the knee wall and on the garage ceiling is the fix. Knee wall insulation →

hvac

Air sealing the attic floor

Before cellulose goes down, every top plate, wire hole, plumbing chase, can light and chimney chase in the attic floor gets foamed. This is the step that makes the attic insulation work. Attic air sealing →

block

Where we do not use it

Open attic floors. Foam across a whole attic floor uses a lot of material for the R-value it delivers and is permanent, and dense-pack cellulose over a foamed air seal reaches R-49 for less material and can be added to later. We will say so on the assessment. Cellulose versus spray foam →

How a Spray Foam Job Goes

What to expect from the assessment to the day you can use the space again. Most residential jobs are one day of spraying.

1

Assess and specify

A blower door test and infrared pass show where the house is actually leaking, so the foam goes where it matters. We specify open- or closed-cell, thickness and where the thermal or ignition barrier is required, in writing, before the truck comes.

2

Remove and prepare

Old insulation comes out; foam does not go over fiberglass or cellulose. Surfaces have to be clean, dry and above the minimum temperature the foam needs to bond. Wet or damaged framing is flagged before it is covered.

3

Mask, ventilate, clear the area

Everything near the spray zone is masked against overspray. Pilot lights and other ignition sources are shut off. Fans and ducting exhaust the space to the outdoors, aimed away from neighbors. Nobody but the crew, in supplied-air respirators and suits, is in the area while foam is going on.

4

Spray in lifts

The rig heats and pressurizes both components and mixes them at the gun. Closed-cell goes on in passes of about two inches with time between them; foam sprayed too thick in one lift overheats, cures badly and is the usual source of odor complaints. We check ratio and temperature at the rig throughout.

5

Cure, trim and cover

Foam that overfills a cavity is trimmed flush. Where code requires it, foam left exposed in an attic or crawl space gets an ignition barrier coating, and foam in living space is covered by drywall as a thermal barrier. The space stays ventilated and closed off for the cure window.

6

Re-occupy and verify

Plan on 24 hours before using the sprayed area. Then a second blower door reading shows what the air sealing did. It goes in your file and on the NYSERDA paperwork we submit for New York homes.

Safety, Off-Gassing and the Real Downsides

People search this before they call anyone. Here are the straight answers.

masks

During the job, it is a hazardous material

The A-side of spray foam is an isocyanate. While it is being sprayed and for the hours it cures, the mist and vapor can irritate eyes and airways and, with repeated exposure, sensitize the lungs. That is a fact about the material, and it is why the rules are not negotiable: crew in supplied-air respirators and full suits, occupants out of the area, mechanical ventilation to the outdoors during and after spraying, and no re-entry until the cure window has passed. A contractor who sprays with a paper mask on and lets you watch is telling you how the rest of the job will go.

check_circle

After it cures, it is inert

Properly mixed and cured polyurethane foam is a stable solid. It does not shed fibers, it does not feed mold, and it does not keep off-gassing. The manufacturer guidance we follow is 24 hours of ventilated cure before re-occupancy for high-pressure foam. Cases of a house that still smells weeks later trace back to installation errors: foam mixed off-ratio, sprayed too thick per lift, or applied to a cold or damp surface. Those are avoidable, and the way to avoid them is the rig discipline in step four.

local_fire_department

Fire code: thermal and ignition barriers

Foam plastic burns, so the building code does not allow it to be left exposed to living space. Inside the house it has to be behind a thermal barrier, which in practice means half-inch drywall. In an attic or crawl space that is entered only for service, code allows a lighter ignition barrier instead, usually an intumescent coating sprayed over the foam. We include whichever one the location calls for and note it on the proposal, because leaving it off is the most common code violation we see on other people's spray foam.

warning

The downsides we tell every customer

It is permanent. Foam bonded to framing is very hard to remove, so later rewiring, replumbing or re-roofing from inside is harder. On a roof deck it can hide a leak, because water no longer drips into the attic where you would notice. And its performance depends entirely on the installer; the same material sprayed badly shrinks, pulls away from studs, or smells. The one thing it is not: a mold problem. Cured foam does not hold water and does not feed mold; the mold stories come from foam sealing in moisture that was never dealt with, which is an assessment failure, not a foam failure.

Spray Foam Jobs We Have Done

Our crews, our photos. The one at the top of the page is a garage wall in progress; these are the other places foam goes.

Installer spraying closed-cell foam into open garage wall stud bays, foam expanding flush to the studs
Garage walls. Closed-cell in the stud bays of an attached garage with a bedroom over it. The room above was the coldest in the house.
Attic floor air sealing with spray foam around a bath fan duct and along the joist bays before insulation
Attic air sealing. Foam around the bath fan duct and along the joist bays before the cellulose goes down.
Attic top plates and wiring penetrations sealed with orange spray foam along the wall lines
Top plates. Every wall line and wire hole in the attic floor foamed. This is where most of a house's attic air leakage is.
Basement rim joist bays filled with closed-cell spray foam above a block foundation wall
Rim joist. Two inches of closed-cell across the joist bays and sill, sealing the top of a block foundation wall.

Spray Foam Is in Both NYSERDA Comfort Home Packages

We install spray foam in Scarsdale, Rye, Bronxville, Pelham, New Rochelle, Yonkers, White Plains, Tarrytown, Chappaqua, Bedford, Yorktown and Peekskill in Westchester; across Rockland, Orange and Dutchess; and in Mahwah, Ramsey, Ridgewood, Wyckoff, Franklin Lakes, Paramus and the rest of Bergen County, along with Essex, Passaic and Hudson counties in New Jersey.

Metro NY Insulation is a NYSERDA participating contractor and BPI accredited. We file the paperwork. New York only — New Jersey homes go through Home Performance with ENERGY STAR, which has its own incentive structure, and we work in both states.

Westchester County, NY Rockland County, NY Orange County, NY Dutchess County, NY Bergen County, NJ Essex County, NJ Passaic County, NJ Hudson County, NJ

Comfort Home Package A

$2,500 — attic and rim joist

The rim joist is a spray foam job, and the attic air sealing under the cellulose is foam too. Package A is where most spray foam work in a New York home lands.

Comfort Home Package B

$3,000 — adds walls or floor

Foaming crawl space, basement or exterior walls is the wall-and-floor scope that moves a project to Package B. We confirm which package your home falls under during the assessment.

Westchester bonus · through December 31, 2026

Up to $5,000 combined

Westchester homeowners add $2,000 as Con Edison customers, or $1,000 on other utilities, on top of their Comfort Home package. Con Edison's own Weather Ready program is closed; this adder is fulfilled by NYSERDA.

Spray Foam Insulation Questions

Should I use open-cell or closed-cell spray foam?add
It depends on where it is going. Closed-cell foam is dense, about R-6.5 to R-7 per inch, does not absorb water, and becomes a vapor retarder at around two inches, so it is the material for anything below grade or in contact with concrete or the weather: rim joists, crawl space and basement walls, roof decks, mobile home underbellies. Open-cell foam is lighter, about R-3.5 to R-3.8 per inch, stays vapor-open and absorbs sound, so it belongs in interior walls and some roof assemblies where drying inward matters. We choose per location, and a lot of houses get both.
Is spray foam insulation safe to have in my house?add
Yes, once it is cured. Spray foam is made from two liquids that react on contact; while it is being sprayed and for the hours it cures, the mist and vapor contain isocyanates, which irritate the lungs and can sensitize people who breathe them. That is why our crew works in supplied-air respirators and full suits, the house is ventilated to the outside during the job, and nobody else is in the spray area. Fully cured foam is inert, does not shed fibers, and does not support mold. Problems with lingering odor almost always trace to foam that was mixed off-ratio, sprayed too thick in one pass, or applied to a substrate that was too cold, which is an installer problem, not a material problem.
How long do we need to stay out of the house after spray foam is installed?add
For the high-pressure two-component foam we use, plan on 24 hours before re-occupying the part of the house that was sprayed, with the area ventilated the whole time. That is the manufacturers' guidance and we follow it. For small low-pressure kit foam, such as sealing a few penetrations, it is closer to an hour. If a distinct odor is still present after the cure window, call us; we would rather come back and look than have you wait it out.
What are the downsides of spray foam insulation?add
Three real ones. It is permanent: foam bonded to framing is very difficult to remove, so future rewiring, replumbing or a re-roof from the inside is harder. On a roof deck it can hide a roof leak for a long time, because the water no longer drips into the attic. And it is only as good as the installer: foam sprayed off-ratio, too thick per pass, or onto a cold surface can shrink, pull away from studs, or smell. Two things people worry about that are not real downsides: cured foam does not off-gas indefinitely, and it does not cause mold. We also tell people where spray foam is not the best answer, which is most open attic floors, where dense-pack cellulose over a foamed air seal does the job better.
Can you spray foam over existing insulation?add
No, and anyone who offers to should not be doing the work. Foam has to bond to a clean, dry, solid surface to air seal and to reach its rated R-value. Old fiberglass or cellulose gets removed first, wet or damaged material is bagged and taken out, and the framing is inspected before anything is sprayed. Removal is part of the job.
Does NYSERDA cover spray foam insulation?add
Yes, for New York homes, when it is installed by a NYSERDA participating contractor as part of a Comfort Home project. The rim joist, which is almost always spray foam, is part of Package A ($2,500, attic and rim joist). Foaming crawl space, basement or exterior walls is the wall-and-floor scope that moves a project to Package B ($3,000). Westchester homeowners can add $1,000 to $2,000 more through December 31, 2026 depending on their utility, up to $5,000 combined. Metro NY Insulation files the application. New Jersey homes go through Home Performance with ENERGY STAR instead.

Find Out Where Foam Belongs in Your House

A blower door test and infrared pass show where the air is actually moving. We will tell you where spray foam is the answer, where cellulose is, and which NYSERDA package the work falls under.

Schedule A Home Assessment With Our Insulation Experts